Sound, light, heatRebuild shelfHand tools, works as-is
Speaker driver
Also called woofer, cone, 8 ohm, laptop speaker.
A coil, a magnet, and a cone. TVs and stereo speakers are the ones worth mounting. Laptop and phone speakers are fine as alarms and poor as music. Read the impedance before you parallel two of them.
If you are new to this category
Speakers, lamps, heaters, and displays. To test a speaker, touch a 1.5 V cell to the terminals for a moment. The cone should click once. A heater can start a fire if you remove the part that was supposed to shut it off.
Heat and bright light usually mean household voltage. Unplug first. If the original safety part is open, find out why before you replace it.
Touch a 1.5 volt cell to the two terminals for a moment only. A good cone clicks and moves. A scrape means the coil is rubbing, which will sound bad even if it still makes noise. The ohms printed on the magnet, often 4, 6, or 8, tell you what amplifier it expects.
Strong neodymium magnets. Hard-drive magnets slam together hard enough to blood-blister skin and shatter into sharp chips. They also wipe media and bother pacemakers.
| What to look for | Usual figure |
|---|---|
| Impedance | Usually 4, 6, or 8 Ω, stamped on the magnet. Two 4 Ω drivers in parallel is 2 Ω, which many amps will not do. |
| Power | A laptop speaker is about 1–2 W. A TV speaker may be 5–10 W. The stamp is optimistic marketing as often as it is a rating. |
| Enclosure | A bare driver needs a box or it will sound like a telephone. Keep the original box if you liked the sound. |
Volts are electrical pressure, amps are how much current is flowing, and ohms are how hard the part resists that flow. A higher voltage than the part was built for is how salvage parts die on the bench. If a cell in the table says “read the stamp”, that stamp is the whole specification.
What people actually use it for
- An amplifier you already have
- An alarm
- The donor enclosure as a finished speaker
Leave this one when
The cone is torn, the voice coil rubs, or the surround is foam dust. Re-foaming is a hobby, not a side effect of salvage.
Buying a new one is the better idea when
A driver with a frequency-response curve, once you are building a speaker rather than reusing one.
How to tell if this one still works
1.5 V cell, momentary. One click, cone moves freely, no scrape.
Step-by-step on the bench: Test a speaker or voice coilTools you will want: AA cell, Meter.
Words on this page
Short meanings, so the rest of the entry is readable if you are not already doing this every weekend.
- parallel
- Connected side by side. Cells in parallel share the current and stay at the same voltage. Only match cells that are in similar condition.
Where people actually find it
11 notes, most useful first. “Leave it” means the part is in that machine and you should not take it: it is dangerous, worn out, or only useful if you already know that exact repair.
| From | Call | How many | How often | Where it sits |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Clock radio or stereo | Prize | 2 | always | Left and right. |
| Powered or Bluetooth speaker | Prize | 1–2 | always | Each cabinet. |
| Headphones | Prize | 2 | always | The earcups. |
| Laptop | Worth it | 2 | usually | Front edge, left and right. |
| LCD television | Worth it | 2 | usually | Left and right inside the rear cover. |
| Mobile phone | Worth it | 1–2 | usually | Bottom speaker and earpiece. |
| End-of-life car | Worth it | 2–8 | usually | Doors and deck. |
| Alarm clock | Worth it | 1 | usually | The back. |
| LCD monitor | Bonus | 2 | sometimes | Bottom corners, on models that had them. |
| Motorized toy | Bonus | 1 | usually | Inside. |
| CRT television or monitor | Leave it | 1–2 | usually | Inside. |
- In this particular machine
- Real cones, impedance stamped.
- Where to look
- Left and right.
- How to get it out
- Unbolt. Keep the enclosure.
- The condition to expect
- Foam surrounds may be dust.
- In this particular machine
- Stamped impedance.
- Where to look
- Each cabinet.
- How to get it out
- Unbolt.
- The condition to expect
- Surrounds may be rotten on older ones.
- In this particular machine
- Often 32 Ω, low power. The stamp is on the driver.
- Where to look
- The earcups.
- How to get it out
- Desolder the cable.
- The condition to expect
- Good if the cone is not crushed.
- In this particular machine
- Small, often 8 Ω, 1–2 W, with a plug.
- Where to look
- Front edge, left and right.
- How to get it out
- Unplug. Note which side.
- The condition to expect
- Cones are usually intact.
- In this particular machine
- Often 8 Ω, several watts, with a plug.
- Where to look
- Left and right inside the rear cover.
- How to get it out
- Unbolt. Note impedance.
- The condition to expect
- Cones usually intact.
- In this particular machine
- 8 Ω class, under a watt.
- Where to look
- Bottom speaker and earpiece.
- How to get it out
- The grille is glued.
- The condition to expect
- Distorted if it was drowned.
- In this particular machine
- 4 Ω is typical. The stamp is on the magnet.
- Where to look
- Doors and deck.
- How to get it out
- The screws are usually Torx.
- The condition to expect
- Cones get wet and rot.
- In this particular machine
- Small, for the buzzer.
- Where to look
- The back.
- How to get it out
- Fine.
- The condition to expect
- Good.
- In this particular machine
- Small, 4–8 Ω.
- Where to look
- Bottom corners, on models that had them.
- How to get it out
- Unplug.
- The condition to expect
- Fine.
- In this particular machine
- A small mylar cone.
- Where to look
- Inside.
- How to get it out
- Fine for noises.
- The condition to expect
- Good.
- In this particular machine
- Ordinary speakers, and not worth the tube.
- Where to look
- Inside.
- How to get it out
- Leave them.
- The condition to expect
- Fine, and still not worth it.