All donors

EntertainmentYou will see this often

Powered or Bluetooth speaker

Also called PC speakers, Bluetooth speaker, soundbar.

A speaker, an amplifier board, and a way to feed it. Keep those three together. The battery, if there is one, is the part that died.

A donor is the dead machine. The parts below are what is still worth removing from it. “Leave it” is a part that is physically in there and should stay in there: too dangerous, too worn, or only useful as part of a repair you are not doing.

What you are looking at
Lid, set asideSealed supplyMotor or pumpCord, inspect itOpen the dead one. Do not defeat the safety parts on a live one.

A scrapped machine is a box of parts that failed at different times. The reason it was thrown out is often one bad piece. The motor, the cord, the supply, and the screws are frequently still good. This index says which is which.

Why it is in the trash while the parts are not

A dead battery, a lost brick, or hum from a dried-out filter cap.

Before you open it

Do this while it is still unplugged, cool, and not leaking. Unplug the brick. Remove the cells if it is portable.

Where the dead machine usually is

PC speakers are in every office cleanout, brick missing. The brick is 12 V more often than people remember; read the jack's sibling if you find it.

How it comes apart

The passive speaker is just a driver and a wire. The active one has the board.

Tools: Phillips, Spudger.

What to take

The table is the short version. The notes under it describe that part inside this machine, not only the general description.

Parts in this donor
PartCallHow manyHow oftenWhere to look
Speaker driverPrize1–2alwaysEach cabinet.
Amplifier boardPrize1usuallyThe active cabinet.
Bluetooth audio moduleWorth pulling1sometimesPortable speakers.
Cylindrical lithium-ion cellWorth pullinga packsometimesPortable speakers.
Charger moduleBonus1sometimesWith the cells.
Switch-mode wall supplyWorth pulling1usuallyThe brick.
PotentiometerWorth pulling1usuallyVolume.
3.5 mm audio jackWorth pulling1usuallyThe aux input.
EnclosureWorth pulling1alwaysThe cabinet.

Prize

  • Prize — take this firstSpeaker driver1–2 · always

    Stamped impedance.

    Each cabinet.

    Unbolt.

    Surrounds may be rotten on older ones.

  • Prize — take this firstAmplifier board1 · usually

    Class D, supply printed on the board or implied by the brick.

    The active cabinet.

    Keep the input jack.

    Hum means filter caps.

Worth pulling

  • Worth pullingBluetooth audio module1 · sometimes

    Audio Bluetooth, sometimes combined with the amp.

    Portable speakers.

    Keep the button and the antenna.

    Good if the battery was the fault.

  • Worth pullingCylindrical lithium-ion cella pack · sometimes

    18650s.

    Portable speakers.

    Test them. The pack is often the fault.

    Mixed.

  • Worth pullingSwitch-mode wall supply1 · usually

    9–18 V are all common.

    The brick.

    Label it.

    Often lost rather than dead.

  • Worth pullingPotentiometer1 · usually

    Log taper, often with a power switch.

    Volume.

    Scratchy.

    Mixed.

  • Worth pulling3.5 mm audio jack1 · usually

    3.5 mm.

    The aux input.

    Keep it on the board.

    Good.

  • Worth pullingEnclosure1 · always

    Already the right volume for the driver.

    The cabinet.

    The best enclosure you will salvage.

    Grills tear.

Bonus

  • Bonus, if you are already in thereCharger module1 · sometimes

    1S or 2S charger.

    With the cells.

    Read it before you trust it.

    Good.