SensingRebuild shelfUnplug and unscrew
Infrared LED
Also called IR emitter, 940 nm LED, remote LED.
The clear or dark LED in a remote control. Typically 940 nm. Invisible, so a phone camera is the test instrument. A remote LED expects pulses, not a DC current from a 9 V battery.
If you are new to this category
A sensor reports a condition such as weight, light, temperature, or position. Many sensors do not switch fully on or off. A kitchen scale bar, for example, changes by thousandths of a volt. Keep the small board that read the sensor if you still have it.
Keep the connector. Write down the wire colors before you cut them. If you do not know which wire is which, the sensor is hard to reuse.
Red and black feed the sensor a steady few volts. Green and white are the tiny signal, measured between them, not from either one to ground. Pressing the bar changes that signal by millivolts. A normal meter on DC volts can show that it responds. Turning it into a number on a screen wants a small amplifier board, often an HX711.
| What to look for | Usual figure |
|---|---|
| Wavelength | About 940 nm for remotes. 850 nm exists and looks different on a camera; it is less common in remotes. |
| Drive | Pulsed tens of mA. A series resistor is not optional. |
Volts are electrical pressure, amps are how much current is flowing, and ohms are how hard the part resists that flow. A higher voltage than the part was built for is how salvage parts die on the bench. If a cell in the table says “read the stamp”, that stamp is the whole specification.
What people actually use it for
- A remote you are rebuilding
- An optical interrupter illuminator
- A short night-vision illuminator
Leave this one when
You already destroyed the lead frame getting it out of the rubber. Remotes are worth more as remotes.
Buying a new one is the better idea when
A known 940 nm LED. They are cheap. Pull one when the remote is already dead.
How to tell if this one still works
Diode test, then a few mA, then look at it through a phone camera. It should glow on the screen.
Tools you will want: Meter, Phone camera, Resistor.
Words on this page
Short meanings, so the rest of the entry is readable if you are not already doing this every weekend.
- series
- Connected in a chain. Cells in series add their voltages. LEDs in series all go dark if one of them opens.
Where people actually find it
4 notes, most useful first. “Leave it” means the part is in that machine and you should not take it: it is dangerous, worn out, or only useful if you already know that exact repair.
| From | Call | How many | How often | Where it sits |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Infrared remote | Prize | 1 | always | The nose. |
| Garage door opener | Prize | 1 | usually | The other beam. |
| LCD television | Bonus | 1 | usually | In the remote that was sold with the set. It is usually in the couch, not the TV. |
| Photoelectric smoke alarm | Bonus | 1 | usually | The sense chamber. |
- In this particular machine
- 940 nm class, pulsed by the board.
- Where to look
- The nose.
- How to get it out
- A working remote is more useful than the diode.
- The condition to expect
- Good if the remote still flashes on a phone camera.
- In this particular machine
- The emitter.
- Where to look
- The other beam.
- How to get it out
- Do not swap the pair's polarity.
- The condition to expect
- Good.
- In this particular machine
- A 940 nm diode. A working remote is more useful than the diode.
- Where to look
- In the remote that was sold with the set. It is usually in the couch, not the TV.
- How to get it out
- The remote is its own donor.
- The condition to expect
- Leaked button cells are the usual remote failure.
- In this particular machine
- A paired IR LED and photodiode in a maze.
- Where to look
- The sense chamber.
- How to get it out
- The maze is the smoke detector. The parts are ordinary.
- The condition to expect
- Good.