Office & commsYou will see this often
Router or modem
Also called Wi-Fi router, cable modem, access point.
A small enclosure, a known barrel jack, antennas, and an external brick that is the actual prize. The SoC is not a hobby computer you can repurpose just because it runs Linux in someone else's firmware.
A donor is the dead machine. The parts below are what is still worth removing from it. “Leave it” is a part that is physically in there and should stay in there: too dangerous, too worn, or only useful as part of a repair you are not doing.
A scrapped machine is a box of parts that failed at different times. The reason it was thrown out is often one bad piece. The motor, the cord, the supply, and the screws are frequently still good. This index says which is which.
Why it is in the trash while the parts are not
The ISP replaced it, or it no longer gets updates. The brick is almost always healthy.
Before you open it
Do this while it is still unplugged, cool, and not leaking. Unplug the brick. There is little stored energy, but it is still mains on the brick side.
Where the dead machine usually is
- Home office — In the house
- Junk drawer and cable box — In the house
- Office cleanout — Commercial
- Move-out week — Curb
The brick migrates to the junk drawer and loses its label in your memory. Write the voltage on it the day you salvage it.
How it comes apart
Screws under the label. Antennas unscrew or are internal pigtails.
Tools: Phillips, Spudger.
Words on this page
- mains
- Ordinary household wall power. It can kill. Unplug before you open anything that used it, and do not experiment on live wiring.
What to take
The table is the short version. The notes under it describe that part inside this machine, not only the general description.
| Part | Call | How many | How often | Where to look |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Switch-mode wall supply | Prize | 1 | always | The external brick. |
| Barrel jack | Worth pulling | 1 | always | Rear panel. |
| Antenna pigtail | Worth pulling | 1–3 | usually | From the board to the antenna. |
| Enclosure | Worth pulling | 1 | always | The shell. |
| Electrolytic capacitor | Bonus | 2–4 | usually | Near the jack. |
| Linear regulator | Bonus | 1 | usually | Near the SoC. |
| Indicator LED | Bonus | several | always | Front panel. |
| Pin header and connector | Bonus | 1 | sometimes | A UART pad group. |
Prize
Commonly 9 or 12 V at 1 A class. Read it.
The external brick.
Label voltage, polarity, and measured current capability if you load-test it.
Usually good.
Worth pulling
5.5 mm class. Confirm the bore.
Rear panel.
Keep the jack with the brick.
Loose sleeves are a reject.
U.FL to a small dipole.
From the board to the antenna.
Pop the connector straight.
Good if the center pin is straight.
A vented plastic box with an antenna hole.
The shell.
Good project size.
Clips break.
Bonus
Input filter caps. If the router rebooted randomly they may be the fault.
Near the jack.
Test before keeping.
Mixed.
Often a 3.3 V SOT-223 regulator.
Near the SoC.
Only if the marking is a part you recognize.
Unknown otherwise.
Ordinary indicators on a harness.
Front panel.
Keep the light-pipe with them if you want the look.
Good.
Unlabeled 3.3 V serial, if you already do that kind of work.
A UART pad group.
Do not invent a pinout.
Fine.